Review #100 - Lagavulin 16 Year
For the 100th review, we figured that, instead of picking a new, special bottle for review, we would look back at where we started a year ago: Lagavulin 16 Year, our first review, and the whisky that started our passion for this hobby.
Our palates have changed in the last year to a degree that's been pretty noticeable. We find ourselves seeking out higher strength, more naturally presented whiskies, and while we always had some degree of interest in world whiskies, we are searching for new styles and whiskies with new countries of origin more regularly now. When looking at Scotch specifically (still our favorite category, if we had to pick), we still do love these peated single malts, but we also find our favoritism drifting toward the style of unpeated or mildly peated whiskies, especially with exclusively (or close to it) ex-bourbon maturation. Given another year or two, I'm sure our tastes will have changed once more.
A quick word about this bottle of whisky, too, since that's what we're actually here to do - this is Lagavulin 16 Year, a teenage peaty Islay whisky that ages in a mixture of ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks. It's known as one of the most common whiskies that introduces enthusiasts to this hobby - we were two of those people, when we first tasted it at a family member's home five or so years ago. The 16 Year is known for its balanced sweetness and its coastal smoke, which is strong but not quite to the levels of neighbors Laphroaig and Ardbeg. This bottling has the Diageo special, too: 43% ABV instead of 46%+, coloring added, and chill filtration.
Anyways, enough rambling... let's dig into this single malt.
Lagavulin 16 Year
Scotland/Islay - Single Malt
Price Paid: USD 93 (2022)
Current Locally Available Price: USD 93 (2023)
Age Statement: 16 Years
Strength: 43% ABV
Cask Makeup: Ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks
Tasting Methodology: Reviewed 4 times over 3 months; bottles at 50%, 40% (blind tasting), 30%, and 20% (blind tasting) fill levels at times of review. Tasted in a Glencairn glass each time, rested 10-15 minutes
Nose: It's nice, a sort of 'jack of all trades' when it comes to the combination of sherry and peat - slightly medicinal smoke, salinity, some dry wood smoke or char as well, but also burnt ends barbecue, savory blood orange, glazed strawberries, even cherries. There is some nice buttery oak showing some age, along with an elegant perfume note, but despite these, this is still fresh and saucy and tangy. Lots of balsamic vinegar and green moss, and in one tasting, bitter prunes and dark chocolate. Rich but not overbearing, and very well balanced.
Palate: The mouthfeel is medium-thin - that extra aging is really at odds with the low bottling strength. Peat is strong now but kept in check by lots of fruit: orange, juicy raisin, a sharp peach and some lime. The smoke turns a little more woody, and while still relatively balanced, this turns slightly more toward the bitter and savory end of the palate: dry wood and char, dry barbecue and salty pretzels, tannins, hot peppers, peppercorns. That said, there are subtle sweet notes of vanilla and sugary oil (think simple syrup); while still a well-rounded experience, this feels more watery with time.
Finish: A medium length finish, bordering medium-long at times; soft sweet peat and more mild barbecue smoke, fig and orange chicken, orange zest and sweet peppers. There are some mature notes of dark chocolate and unsmoked tobacco leaf later on, but the oak has a pretty mild influence in the finish, leaving room for greenish notes and some coastal salt. We end with sweet fruit jams.
Final Note: Is this rating still a bit high? This is chill-filtered, colored whisky presented at a strength lower than we expect for a quality release. Does Diageo still have a long way to go in terms of changing their malt whisky bottling policies to make them appeal to us enthusiasts? Yes, of course they do. But does this whisky still have brilliant underlying character and excellent balance? We think it does. Our rating has dropped a little bit as our palate grows more experienced - in the last year alone, we've tried close to 300 different bottles/samples, an experience which really puts this Lagavulin into perspective. Does it still hold a certain special place in our heart? Yes, it still does. If we can find it at a reasonable price (less than $90), we'll probably still replace it when our current bottle is gone.
Our Average Rating: 7.8 / 10
In the current whisky landscape of increasing prices and variable quality, we've added a value rating to our reviews that relates to the score and the available pricing of each whisky. This roughly equates to a 0-10 scale; no reviews so far have exceeded a score of 10, although it is technically possible for the formula to produce a value rating higher than 10 with a high enough score and low enough price.
Value Rating: 6.90
Check out some of our other Lagavulin reviews:
