Review #108 - Bothan Sherry Expression
'Big-Box Retailer' Scotch Series: Part 2 of 6
Part 2 of this Total Wine/Spirits Direct scotch series, we have a Lowland single malt - The Bothan, specifically the sherry cask expression (they also have an ex-bourbon expression). No age statement, but we do get a slight bump in ABV compared to the Shieldaig we last reviewed - it's 43% now, instead of 40%. Not quite integrity presentation as we generally expect it, but we're making progress.
As is generally the case with these Spirits Direct labels, the whisky is from an undisclosed distillery. It's likely relatively young given the price point, and because of the volume of liquid going through Total Wine stores, this is probably from a larger distillery. There are several large Lowland distilleries that have opened in the last few years, along with a couple of long-standing options, so it's a bit harder to pinpoint the source of this one. The Bothan brand is owned by Alexander Murray & Co., which doesn't necessarily help with the sourcing information (as far as we know).
So, to the review - will this Bothan Sherry Expression fare better than our Shieldaig yesterday?
Bothan Sherry Expression
Scotland/Lowlands - Single Malt
Price Paid: USD 33 (2022)
Current Locally Available Price: USD 35 (2023)
Age Statement: NAS
Strength: 43% ABV
Cask Makeup: Ex-bourbon barrels and ex-sherry hogsheads
Tasting Methodology: Reviewed 4 times over 12 months; bottles at 100% (blind tasting), 90% (blind tasting), 80%, and 100% fill levels at times of review. Tasted in a Glencairn glass each time, rested 10-15 minutes
Nose: Mellow and airy and crisp - there's definitely some of that sherry cask influence up front, with red fruits of plum and grape, but this gradually turns into an orchard fruit bomb (well, as much of a 'bomb' as it can be at 43%). We're getting green apple and pear, some orange, as well as lots of grapefruit. There's a hint of minerality, some vanilla and lemongrass accenting it, but there does come a point where a hint of youth is coming through, with a mild cereal grain as well. Not smoky, generally sweet and nice.
Palate: The mouthfeel is medium-thin, there's a nice moderate warmth, and fruits are again the dominant feature - both dark sherry fruits like plum and fig, but also grapefruit and raspberries, even a raisin from time to time. There are more baking notes now, too: brown sugar, cinnamon, almost a cinnamon applesauce; vanilla is plentiful, and it's accented by a hint of sickly sweet perfume. The oak is pretty subdued, and after some cardamom and clove, sharper orange and a spirit note peek through.
Finish: The finish is medium length, someone soft and easy-drinking now, lots of brown sugar and citrus, as well as some sparkly orange soda. We still get bits of fruit in the form of red apples and dried prune, but the oak and baking spices take over a little more, with nutmeg and a hint of pepper. The longer the finish lasts, the more it mellows out into a buttery red wine taste; at the end, just bits of mineral water and orange wine.
Final Note: Not overly complex, not necessarily a sherry bomb, but a pretty nice sipper with a pleasant mix of ex-bourbon and ex-sherry flavors. It can be a little sweet at times, but it finds more balance on the palate and into the finish when the wood and baking spices come in. This is easily the best Spirits Direct whisky we've tried... we aren't likely to recommend many of them, but if you want a budget sipper with plenty of fruity character, this isn't a bad buy. Decent stuff, with a good price point.
Our Average Rating: 6.3 / 10
In the current whisky landscape of increasing prices and variable quality, we've added a value rating to our reviews that relates to the score and the available pricing of each whisky. This roughly equates to a 0-10 scale; no reviews so far have exceeded a score of 10, although it is technically possible for the formula to produce a value rating higher than 10 with a high enough score and low enough price.
Value Rating: 7.68
