Review #11 - BenRiach The Smoky Ten
Peated Speysider Mini-Series: Part 1 of 3
We're starting a quick review series here - Speyside single malts with peated malt used in the distillation process. While Speyside is known for its nice, pleasant, sometimes simple single malts, most of which are aged in bourbon or sherry casks, the demand for more whisky in recent years has led to a proliferation of brands and styles of single malts. Many distilleries are experimenting with ideas that are not necessarily traditional for their regions, or even their country; we're seeing this across Scotland, in the USA with the American single malt, in Oceania with exotic wood cask finishes, and in many other countries that are developing whisky traditions from scratch.
This particular peated speysider has an additional layer of uniqueness: it is triple cask matured, with ex-bourbon, ex-rum, and virgin oak casks used. Perhaps this isn't a surprise, as this distillery was revived by Billy Walker, whose brands are no strangers to exotic cask finishes and interesting combinations (GlenAllachie, anyone?). We're expecting some pretty serious sweet notes from this bottle, and maybe some extra layers of complexity with tropical fruit. Will that be the case?
BenRiach The Smoky Ten
Scotland/Speyside - Single Malt
Price Paid: USD 47 (2021)
Current Locally Available Price: USD 47 (2023)
Age Statement: 10 Years
Strength: 46% ABV
Cask Makeup: Bourbon casks, Jamaican Rum casks, and Virgin Oak Casks
Tasting Methodology: Reviewed 3 times over 2 months; bottles at 100%, 90%, and 80% fill level at times of review. Tasted in a Glencairn glass each time, rested 10-15 minutes
Nose: We're getting medium peat up front here, and it's cleaner in character, not too earthy or vegetal. Interestingly, there is a definite salt note here, and just a little bit of youthful vigor. Then we get into the flavor notes: vanilla sweetness, a touch of buttery oak, heather, and damp hay. There is some fruit hiding inside as well, in the form of lemon or citrus, even a lemon-lime soda. Butterscotch, cream, and a sweet bread round it out. All of that said, this isn't the strongest nose in the world - you have to search around a little bit.
Palate: Peat is still a medium strength on the palate, but it's covered by loads of vanilla, sweet cream, just lots of sweetness in general; some toasted coconut and butter as well. There is a distinct wood smoke note from the virgin oak, but this whisky generally sticks to the classic Speyside ex-bourbon character with the addition of peat; light in complexion, somewhat clean, and medium-thin mouthfeel. Later, we do get wood sugars and some baking spice, such as cinnamon and nutmeg. This is all topped with honeyed peaches, heather, and hay.
Finish: A medium length finish here, and while the peat has faded from the level of the palate, it does linger gently for some time. A lot of the same notes as the palate: straw, very mild oak, some cream, and vanilla with honey pancakes. Oak is very gentle, not dry; there's butterscotch candies, and we fade to black with white chocolate chips.
Final Note: These flavors were in line with expectations, and it's a good whisky, if slightly restrained and docile. Always pleasant, and that peat does add a layer of complexity not often seen with neighboring distilleries, but we aren't finding a big hook to bring us back to this bottle again and again. Will that be the case with our other peated Speysiders? We'll find out next week.
Our Average Rating: 6.8 / 10
In the current whisky landscape of increasing prices and variable quality, we've added a value rating to our reviews that relates to the score and the available pricing of each whisky. This roughly equates to a 0-10 scale; no reviews so far have exceeded a score of 10, although it is technically possible for the formula to produce a value rating higher than 10 with a high enough score and low enough price.
Value Rating: 7.57
