Review #165 - Kilchoman Concierge Small Batch No. 2

We're Kilchoman fans and Sauternes cask maturation fans; after trying most of the distillery's core range, we find ourselves looking for more unique bottlings, whether they come in the form of single casks or limited release small batch products. When we found this bottle combining Kilchoman and Sauternes, we had to snag it.

In fact, the maturation of this whisky release is only 25% Sauternes, far from a majority. 70% of the maturation was done in bourbon barrels, and the remaining 5% was completed in sherry casks. Like many of the new age distilleries, Kilchoman is more transparent with their information, so they describe the small batch blending process on the back of the bottle:

“This small batch vatting combines ex-bourbon barrel and Oloroso sherry cask matured Kilchoman at 46% ABV with one specially selected Sauternes cask, at natural cask strength. The result is a marriage of classic Kilchoman citrus and peat smoke notes with layers of fresh fruit and textured Sauternes sweetness.”

Sounds like they essentially tossed a cask strength ex-Sauternes barrel in with a typical batch of Machir Bay, raising the overall strength and adding that sweet wine influence.

Like all Kilchoman whiskies, this is not chill filtered and natural color, statements that are proudly emblazoned on the front label in reflective golden lettering. There’s no age statement, but considering the age of the distillery and the usual age of their releases, we're assuming it’s relatively young whisky, possibly 5 to 8 years old.

This small batch bottling is Batch No. 2, created for the Total Wine chain of big box liquor stores in the United States. The outturn consisted of 1,260 bottles, so this is a relatively limited bottling, but they should still be available on the shelf in select locations across the US.

Kilchoman Concierge Small Batch No. 2

Scotland/Islay - Single Malt

Price Paid: USD 93 (2023)

Current Locally Available Price: USD 93 (2023)

Age Statement: NAS

Strength: 49.7% ABV

Cask Makeup: 70% ex-bourbon, 5% ex-Oloroso sherry, 25% ex-Sauternes

Details: Not chill filtered, no color added, batch no. 2; 1,260 bottles

Tasting Methodology: Reviewed 3 times over 4 months; bottles at 100%, 80% (blind tasting), and 60% (blind tasting) fill levels at times of review. Tasted in a Glencairn glass each time, rested 10-15 minutes

Nose: Bright and crisp to start – strong peat with an agave or mezcal side to it, almost a little floral. Plenty of sweetness in the forms of green apple and lemon, but also crème brulee and buttery, freshly baked bread. Some sharper white pepper, but also hot peppers, or a spicy fruit and pepper jam. With more time to oxidize, stone fruit like nectarines comes forward.

Palate: Plenty of hot peppers and smoke come through from the nose; it’s warm and spirity, potent and a little bit youthful. There’s a medium body to it, providing campfire smoke, ashy peat, quite a bit of sea salt, and sweet lemons. Black pepper gives way to peach and jalapeno jam, and there’s a lighter tone of dried hay on the back of the palate.

Finish: The finish brings oats and buttery oil, along with lots of ashy smoke, grainy wheat bread, and pickled jalapenos; hidden among the dying embers, there are limes and some candied lemon rind.

Final Note: This whisky brings plenty of the character that Kilchoman is known for – bright fruits like lemon, plenty of ashy peat smoke, and a sea salty complexion. It also does a good job of adding in that sweetness from the wine casks – we can see it in the flavors of crème brulee and peach, among others. Relatively well balanced, at least between spirit character and cask influence.

This is on the young side – you can taste it. That isn’t necessarily a bad thing, though. Because the level of smokiness will generally decrease the longer a whisky ages in a cask, younger whiskies can provide a rich, raw experience when they’re peated. This one is visceral; the hot pepper notes and bright, crisp spirit mix with the smokiness to provide plenty kick. It takes water well, too, which mellows the spirit and brings the sweeter notes to the front, along with the lemon.

Our Average Rating: 7.2 / 10

In the current whisky landscape of increasing prices and variable quality, we've added a value rating to our reviews that relates to the score and the available pricing of each whisky. This roughly equates to a 0-10 scale; no reviews so far have exceeded a score of 10, although it is technically possible for the formula to produce a value rating higher than 10 with a high enough score and low enough price.

Value Rating: 6.33