Review #468 - SMWS 18.51 'Dark and Decadent' - Inchgower 15 Year

Inchgower - this is another one of Diageo's rarely-seen distilleries, which we generally only get to try via independent bottlings. There is actually an official bottling - one of the Flora & Fauna series, a 14 year old version - but generally, it's quite a tricky distillery to find. Instead, this malt is generally used as an important component of the Bell's blend, one of the best-selling Scotches in the UK.

Established in 1871 in the town of Buckie in Speyside, Inchgower is a relatively large distillery these days, with a capacity of more than 3 million liters per annum. During the distillation process, the lower end of the spirit cut is taken at an unusually low point, which supposedly leads to a malty, nutty character.

This single cask from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society was aged for 15 years in total - the first 12 years were in an ex-bourbon hogshead, after which the spirit was re-racked into a first fill Spanish Oak Oloroso sherry hogshead. Because of that first fill sherry experience, this bottle ends up in the 'Deep Rich & Dried Fruits' flavor profile.

SMWS 18.51 'Dark and Decadent' - Inchgower 15 Year

Scotland/Speyside - Single Malt

Price: USD 165 (2023)

Age Statement: 15 Years

Strength: 60.5% ABV

Cask Makeup: Ex-bourbon hogshead, finished in a first fill Spanish oak ex-Oloroso sherry hogshead

Details: Not chill filtered, no color added; distilled September 18, 2007; 254 bottles

Tasting Methodology: Reviewed 5 times over 7 months; bottles at 50% (blind tasting), 100% (blind tasting), 80% (blind tasting), 60% (blind tasting), and 50% (blind tasting) fill levels at times of review. Tasted in a Glencairn glass each time, rested 10-15 minutes

Nose: A range of flavors - oak, fruit, and baking spice. There's some polish to that oak flavor, just a little bit of nuttiness; cardamom, vanilla, pepper, clove, and caramel bring the baking side. Actually, we get a bit of a croissant/baked bread, as well; then the fruits, which change from tasting to tasting. Tropical notes like pineapple and guava are balanced by acidic raisin and strawberry. At times, soft sulphur and metallic scents appeared.

Palate: Caramel and toffee start us out - rich, sweet, and oily. There's a decent oak influence, including just a hint of wood smoke, but the fruit flavors start to dominate: figs, prunes, orange, raisin. Honey and vanilla add some sweetness, but there's a tannic side adding balance. At the end of the palate - spiced caramel cookies and creme brulee. The mouthfeel is medium-thick.

Finish: Sugary flavors - caramel, toffee, syrupy stewed fruits. Nutmeg and cinnamon add some spice, and the oak takes on a soft tobacco character; fruit is still strong, with acidic orange being the most prominent. It's a medium-long finish; overall, nicely balanced with a mix of sweet and spice.

Final Note: This is quite nice - strongly flavored, but also nicely measured. There's plenty of fruit from the sherry casks, but that was nicely balanced by a strong cadre of baking spice notes and a decent oak presence. This drank a little bit softer than its 60.5% strength, though the mouthfeel and length of the finish were still very good.

Value is just okay, though - these SMWS bottles can be a bit expensive, especially on the cost-per-year basis ($11 per year of aging, in this case). The Society does generally give a high-quality tasting experience across the board, but it does come at a price.

Our Average Rating: 7.6 / 10

In the current whisky landscape of increasing prices and variable quality, we've added a value rating to our reviews that relates to the score and the available pricing of each whisky. This roughly equates to a 0-10 scale; no reviews so far have exceeded a score of 10, although it is technically possible for the formula to produce a value rating higher than 10 with a high enough score and low enough price.

Value Rating: 5.54

About Us: We're a husband and wife review team living in the Midwest United States. Generally, our reviews and tasting notes will be a compilation of both of our experiences with a whisky over several tasting sessions.